Subaru WRX 3
An excerpt taken from an internet forum:This certainly has been an interesting topic and I guess everyone has an opinion, so I'll share mine. As Tony mentioned in an earlier e-mail I have run the 'cheap and nasty' or BFYB type bleed valve before changing my ECU. As some of you know I have also had my car dynod after each of my mods. Yes they are peak readings, but it was interesting what happened when I changed the ECU. The following are my peak kWs for each of the listed mods:
- Standard 110kW
- Exhaust (CES) 118kW
- Bleed Valve 140kW
- VF22 Turbo 168kW
- FMIC (PWR) 170kW
- Autronic 177kW
The reason that the mods are listed in the above order is because that's the order that I did the mods. Obviously the dynos were done on different days, and in one instance, the FMIC run was on a different dyno and probably in 3rd gear from memory, whereby all other runs were on the same dyno in 4th.
The interesting thing after having the Autronic fitted and tuned, was not the moderate increase in kWs on top of the previous mods, but the monumental increase in kWs lower in the rev range. At around 3200 - 3300 rpm the kWs at the wheels increased by around 30kW above what I already had with all the other mods. It is like driving a new car. Actually it doesn't feel as fast but I think this is due to the more linear power curve. It doesn't snap your neck like it used to - (Now it breaks it more gently!)
The 110kW that used to be my peak kW at 5,600 rpm when my WRX was unmodified, now comes in at 3,300 rpm. It is now much more responsive around the streets without having to worry as much about what gear you are in, or getting away cleanly at lights. Having never tried or having been in a car with the EBC compared to the straight bleed valve, I can't really comment on them. However if I had my time over again with my car I would most likely do the same sort of mods. I am sure that the boost control function of the Autronic accounts for some of the low down gain in kW, as well as quite a few other factors.
With the bleed valve, my dyno curves were quite smooth and even though the boost did climb a bit in colder weather and under high load conditions, it generally stayed within 0.1 bar of the target boost level and very occasionally 0.2 bar under extreme loads. The chart that Q sent around IMHO was either a very poor or faulty bleed, or was plumbed incorrectly.
Anyway, all of the above are my findings and opinions as I am sure there are many, given the number of responses on this topic.
All I would suggest is that you are sure what you want to do, how much you want to spend and trust the person who is doing the work for you and finally be prepared to accept the consequences, if any.